Exploring Female Creative Leadership In Fashion Through Insights From AW24 Data

By Maria Mukaranda

Dior SS24

The conversation on gender diversity continues.

Recently published data from fashion insight platform TagWalk paints a surprisingly illuminating picture of the fashion industry right now - and a fascinating overview of those who run it.

The latest data from the Womenswear AW24 report reveals an interesting trend: out of the top 20 brands, nine are led by female creative directors, with notable names like Jil Sander and Prada at the forefront. The data reveals first place as none other than Miu Miu’s Miuccia Prada, followed by Louis Vuitton’s Nicholas Ghesquiere, Chanel’s Virginie Viard, and Chloé’s Chemena Kamali. Although women make up the minority of fashion’s creative directors, it’s clear that the ones who do, however, outperform.

Yet, beneath the surface, lies a more nuanced narrative. Whilst the presence of female creative leaders is undoubtedly - and very expectedly - a strong driving force, the data also highlights the prevalence of co-directorship and joint ownership arrangements, suggesting that solo female appointments are surprisingly still lagging behind. After the appointment of Sean McGirr last season at Alexander McQueen, all the creative directors of luxury conglomerate Kering's fashion houses are now men of Caucasian descent.

Data from the fashion platform Not Just A Label explores how “more than 85% of majors from top fashion schools are female.” This raises pertinent questions about the structural barriers that may still hinder women from ascending to top creative roles independently and through actual appointment. And yet, ironically, it also underscores the undeniable talent and potential of female leaders within the industry - and the demand of the strongly female audience who populate it.

Given the current cultural climate, a holistic, varied, and multi-faceted approach to staffing is a proven impetus for innovation and success. Take Rihanna's brand, Fenty Beauty, for example, by offering an inclusive range of shades and formulations, the brand has become a massive success, proving that diverse leadership can lead to products that resonate with a wider customer base.

As we delve deeper into these findings, it's clear that the conversation around gender diversity in fashion leadership is far from over. What steps can be taken to ensure more equitable opportunities for women in creative positions? And what fresh perspectives might they bring to the table? Failure to recognise and challenge systemic sexism within the fashion industry perpetuates inequality and hinders progress towards a more inclusive and equitable future.