By Bethany Berkeley
Gucci AW24
Everything that went down during the first week of the AW24 Season.
Milan Men's Fashion Week AW24 concluded on Sunday night, leaving a trail of sartorial surprises and stylish statements in its wake. From classic tailoring with a twist to bold experimentation with materials and textures, the week boasted a variety of collections that redefined menswear for the upcoming autumn/winter season.
Gucci
Gucci AW24
Kicking off with Sabato De Sarno's debut Gucci Men's show where he unveiled a collection that subtly mirrored some of his womenswear looks. Tailoring, a Gucci mainstay, was reimagined with a youthful twist. Oversized blazers in plush velvet were layered over fluid satin shirts, while sharp trousers tapered at the ankle for a contemporary feel. Traditional ties were transformed into necklaces adorned with part chain straps whilst glitz and sexy glamour were very much present throughout the collection, toying with the essence of masculinity we know today.
Prada
Prada AW24
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons teamed up once again to deliver a menswear collection that was as much a cerebral puzzle as it was a sartorial statement. Titled "Work in Progress," the show unfolded within a deliberately sterile office setting, complete with grey swivel chairs and flickering computer screens. But as the first model emerged, it became clear that Prada was anything but concerned with the mundane.
playing with notions of formality and informality, tradition, and rebellion. Crisp tailoring, a Prada signature, was reimagined in unexpected fabrics like denim and leather, while oversized knitwear added a touch of casual nonchalance. This juxtaposition extended to the accessories, with sleek briefcases paired with chunky platform boots and graphic ties adorning slouchy sweaters. Ties were once again a central theme in the collection. Not only used as the invitation to the show but also on the runway, ties came in a variety of styles, from sleek solids to graphic prints, adding a touch of formality and whimsy to even the most relaxed looks.
Fendi
Fendi AW24
Silvia Venturini Fendi took us on a stylish sojourn to the mountains with her Fendi Men's AW24 collection, unveiling it amidst a dramatic winter wonderland set design. The collection, titled "Fendi Outdoors," was a masterclass in blending cosy comfort with an urban edge, proving that dressing for the slopes doesn't have to sacrifice an ounce of sartorial flair.
Once again reimagining traditional masculine ideals, models in shorts that looked more like skirts sauntered down the runway, slouchy pants, skirts, and kilts were also on show. Fisherman's coats and waterproof wax jackets adorned with the eponymous FF canvas were also a part of the collection's outerwear offering. Accessories included the new Siesta bag, which can be flattened like a pillow, making it perfect for travel or on-the-go storage. The Melon Hobo, a rounded shape bag featuring eye-catching chrome FF hardware, and the Peekaboo ISeeU bag, a cult favourite makes a return in a soft, slouchy version.
Stone Island
Stone Island AW24
Forget flashy runways and upbeat music. Stone Island took a bold, theatrical approach for their debut fashion week presentation, transforming La Catédrale into a captivating cage. Underneath a gargantuan black curtain, models stood frozen in time, their futuristic gear illuminated by shifting beams of light. The setting was stark, the message clear: showcasing the innovative gear in their upcoming AW24 collection. The collection featured the Metal Mesh PVD Nanotechnology Down Jacket and the Stone Island Ghost collection, with a variety of woollen materials that reimagined the brand’s classics.
With ideals of masculinity being explored and reimagined this season, we see menswear being redefined both in and out of the workplace. Traditional accessories have become playthings and staple wardrobe pieces giving a new feminine lease on life. As Paris Men's Fashion Week fast approaches, we are excited to see what other themes may be unveiled.