By Shaked Yanko
Courtesy of NOWFASHION
Young Parisian designer Pauline Dujancourt made a remarkable debut on the catwalk at London Fashion Week AW25, holding her own among industry greats with her delicate and evocative collection. Titled 'Everything is Moving, Nothing Feels Safe', the collection was inspired by a Vriesa plant gifted to Dujancourt’s grandmother, known for its rare blooms of vivid red flowers that appear fleetingly before fading away. This notion of impermanence was beautifully translated into the runway show, where gossamer gowns and cable knit jumpers first appeared in muted pewters and slate, only to be interrupted by vibrant bursts of crimson that echoed the blooming cycle of the Vriesa.
Drawing from her background in fashion and textile design at Paris’s École Duperré and a master’s degree from Central Saint Martins in London, Dujancourt showcased a unique mastery of wool work, crochet, and knitting. Her collection blended lightweight materials like mohair, silk satin, and feathered tulle with wool, achieving an exquisite balance between heaviness and airiness. The deconstructed silhouettes evoked the delicate yet resilient nature of flowers, designed to regrow and transform, much like the plant that inspired her. Influenced by British artist Tracey Emin, the palette ranged from deep, dramatic reds to ethereal greys, symbolising mourning, memory, and the bittersweet need to let go.
Pauline Dujancourt
Unlike her British peers, who often embrace bold provocation, Dujancourt captivated the audience with her authentically sensitive and organic style. Her subtlety and attention to detail resonated deeply, proving that power lies in delicacy. As she took her final bow at 180 Studios’ NEWGEN space, it was clear that Dujancourt’s poetic approach had not only captured the imagination of fashion insiders but also solidified her place as one to watch on the international stage.
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