By Bethany Berkeley
Angela Weiss/AFP via Getty Images
New York-based designer Peter Do debuted as creative director of Helmut Lang on September 8, 2023, at New York Fashion Week. The collection was a thoughtful and refined reimagining of the brand's signature '90s minimalism, with a focus on sleek, wearable silhouettes and a muted colour palette.
Do opened the show with a series of black leather coats and dresses, which were cinched at the waist and featured sharp, angular lines. These were followed by more relaxed looks, such as oversized sweaters and cargo pants, which were rendered in neutral tones of grey, beige, and black. Do also incorporated some unexpected pops of colour, such as a bright red leather jacket and a yellow denim skirt.
Throughout the collection, Do paid homage to Helmut Lang's original designs, but he also added his own unique stamp. For example, he updated the brand's signature 90s logo with a more modern typeface, and he incorporated geometric prints and graphic motifs that were inspired by Lang's early work.
Daniele Oberrauch/Gorunway.com/Vogue Runway
In addition to the collection, Do also collaborated with poet Ocean Vuong on a spoken word piece that was played during the show. The piece, which was entitled "The Open Road," reflected on the themes of freedom and possibility. It was a fitting accompaniment to Do's collection, which celebrated the power of simple, elegant design.
Do's debut as creative director of Helmut Lang is a promising start for the brand. He has a clear vision for the future of the label, and he is already showing that he is capable of creating designs that are both stylish and relevant. It will be interesting to see what he does next. Do is a talented designer with a bright future ahead of him, and he will surely lead Helmut Lang into a new era of success.
Comments