To Wear Or Not To Wear: The (Not-So?) Perennial Appeal Of The Samba Sneaker

By Maria Mukaranda

Edward Berthelot/Getty Images

With the growing resurgence of blokecore and the promise of warmer days ahead, this is right about the time when the cultural classic would find its time to shine once more.

Succeeding a recent viral sighting of UK Prime Minister Rishi Sunak sporting the trendy footwear, the Samba has achieved this very feat: but is now shrouded in notoriety, in lieu of its former growing ‘it-girl’ status.

The Adidas x Wales Bonner Samba is currently being traded at a 327% price premium on online marketplace StockX. And yet, a sombre note was struck when The Guardian declared, in a provocative article titled "Farewell Adidas Samba," that the shoe is now ‘dead’ - signalling what some saw as the end of an era.

The Samba's journey from humble beginnings to global icon status, worn by fashionistas from Rihanna and Bella Hadid, to figureheads such as a young David Beckham and the Gallagher brothers - and now fashion infamy - is not without controversy. One could point to a slew of examples of the co-opting of the style and fashion of working-class and underground culture, characterised by a cultivation of unique wardrobes and aesthetics, which are subsequently deemed passé by those in positions of privilege, who adopt and eventually discard it, perpetuating a cycle of appropriation and boredom.

Originally designed in 1949, the Sambas have solidified their status as perennial bestsellers for Adidas, thanks to their combination of affordability, accessibility (no waiting in lines), and rich history.. From its utilitarian roots to its association with football terraces in the 1970s, the Samba has adapted to the changing needs of its wearers while retaining its distinctive style. Today, it continues to generate sales with its sleek design and timeless appeal. As fashion trends evolve, so too do preferences. The shift away from chunky dad sneakers towards sleeker designs reflects changing mainstream tastes in footwear. If the recent controversy surrounding the Sambuca Sneaker serves to underscore anything at all, it’s the fickleness of fashion and the power dynamics inherent in cultural trends.

With the Samba facing scrutiny and speculation concerning its longevity, one thing remains certain: the cyclical nature of fashion ensures that what is old will inevitably become new again. Sunak has since issued a “fulsome apology” following unprecedented furore online; whether the Samba will weather the storm of public opinion or be replaced by a new contender remains to be seen. As debates rage on about its place in contemporary culture, one thing is clear: whether on the feet of politicians or fashion icons, the Samba's legacy has proved as timeless as its design.